To those of you familiar with wood turning, this is the most ‘productive’ tool for turning bigger pieces and as far as I am aware, the most enjoyable to use. It is easily sharpened on a bench grinder without the use of fancy jigs and its profile, although important, can be continuously re-shaped to suit different applications.
It is also a hefty thing and feels nice and weighty in use. There is little chance of it jumping around when tackling dry and dense timbers. Its most important attribute is however, its cut. Used correctly, it’s possible to get a nice smooth finish straight off the tool and reduce the amount of time needed for sanding. When turning green wood, huge cuts can be taken – sometimes removing half an inch of timber in one pass. Why not put down that scraper and read on!…
When I started turning, I was lucky enough to be introduced to the bowl gouge as my first tool and had no real choice, but to master it or stop turning. This may seem harsh, but my tutor recognised the importance of using proper tools and I did end up learning quickly!
The key to unlocking its potential is to understand the delicate balance between its bevel edge (the flat surface created on the grinder) and the cutting tip. At any given time during the turning process, whether detailing a rim or turning deep inside a bowl, the tool should be gliding on its bevel edge, following the shape you are creating. Only a slight, barely detectable motion rocks the tool onto its cutting tip and starts the cutting action.
When I first used it, I found this process impossible to control and couldn’t avoid creating ridges and profiles that were unpleasant to look at. There were also the occasions when I got a ‘dig’ – an annoying moment when the tool is introduced at the wrong angle, ripping a chunk out of the bowl! You have to relax when using the gouge and not grip it too hard. Rough turning is the perfect way to gain experience, since bowl blanks don’t need to be finished accurately but you need lots of them.
The gouge should be held and controlled with the right hand. The left hand positions the bevel edge against the work piece and exerts downward pressure on the tool rest. On very dry timber, the tool rest can be used as a fulcrum to apply pressure to the bevel edge and stop the tool moving with the contours of the grain. This takes time to master, but is certainly worth the effort. Scraper tools, whilst easy to use, tear through the timber instead of cutting. These may be okay for rough turning, but require a lot of finish sanding when used on dry wood.
The gouge is without question my favourite tool and certainly the main one I use. However, I have just purchased the Rolly Munro hollowing tool and so far I’m impressed – watch this space for a review!